Last months culture class speaker was Brandon Tam from the Huntington. Many of you took notes but just in case you missed anything, this is a recap of “Paphiopedulum Culture according to the Huntington”.


  • Water in the morning to prevent rot, combination of cold weather and water can cause root or leaf rot, do not water on rainy days

  • Very water loving, keep moist 80% of the week and allow it to dry out the remaining 20% of the week

  • When re-potting hold back on water, roots are not very active

  • Water preference for Orchids is below 60 PPM (Parts per Million) TDS (Total Dissolved Solids), 60 to 120 PPM is a bit high. At The


  • Adequate air movement is vital to ensure that roots do not rot

  • Stagnant air is terrible, water saturated air is harmful

  • Proper air circulation will also allow for leaves to dry at a faster rate if water has landed on the leaves thus preventing leaf rot

  • Fights fungus and bacteria growth


  • Anywhere from 1000-1500 FC (foot candle) is best for growing Paphiopedilums, for comparison, on a clear Winter’s day outside, it is about 6000 FC’s where as Summer can be 10,000 FC’s

  • Filtered light, no direct sunlight is best

  • Adequate light is crucial to ensure flower blooms and increased amount of plant growth

  • Should be noted that as you increase light, foliage “greenness” will decrease but will be compensated with more growth and flowers


We use Michigan State University Orchid Fertilizer, “FEED ME!” Can be purchased (R/O, Rain, distilled water highly recommended)